Thursday, April 10, 2008

I woke up feeling surprisingly refreshed... I think it was the onsen bath before bedtime! So we all woke up, ate some vegan macrobotic "brunch" (its lunch food, people in Japan don't eat breakfast!) and decided to get an early start on the trek to Mt. Koya.

The train ride was pretty long, and Tesni and I sat on the sunny side... We had an excellent view of all the small villages passing by. It was nice to see countryside Japan for awhile after being surrounded by the lights and sounds of Shinsaibashi! I drifted in and out of daydreams and naps, but was really anxious to visit Koyasan. In planning our trip, Tesni and Nicole kept asking me what kinds of things I wanted to do while I was in Japan... Since I didn't really consult any travel books and didn't know *too* much about Japan, I didn't have many suggestions. The usual, karaoke, photobooth, peace sign pictures at tourist spots, mostly hanging out with my friends... oh and A TEMPLE STAY. Ideally, I would have liked to spend the entire time in Japan at a temple... ok, maybe not really, but the thought is just so peaceful and seems typically Japanese to me. Buddhist temples are such a major part of traditional Japan, and I was anxious to experience that for myself.

As soon as the train stopped, I could feel that Koya was going to be an amazing time. We took this cable car up to the top of the mountain, and then got on a city bus to take us right to the ryokan. When we got to our temple, Shojoshin-in, we had to take off our shoes and put on our temple slippers, which we wouldn't take off for most of the time. No locks for your shoe box, just out in the open. Its nice to think that I didn't even consider "would someone steal my shoes?" until right now. Most of Japan is like that, just honor system. I'm sure some people take advantange of it, but I like thinking that there are still places in the world that can run that way.

We filled out our paperwork and got the lay of the temple, there was a rush to retreat to the rooms since we were anxious to relax. Well, that sounds strange. Not anxious, but relieved! The atmosphere of the temple was so peaceful, filled with sounds of running water and birds chirping around the gardens. There was a traditional Japanese rock garden and another mossy green area with plenty of flora and fauna to admire from the balcony in your room.

The rooms were simplistic bliss, very traditional Japanese architecture and design style. Bamboo walls, Japanese wall hangings, sliding doors, futon beds and my very first kotatsu! Kotatsu is a coffee table that is heated underneath where you put your legs... genius! Apparently a lot of older people go to the hospital with severe kotatsu burns though... yikes. And Nicole said people have told her sometimes they sleep under their kotatsu in the winter time. Sounds cozy!

While Adam kept reading his book and napped, I went over to Tesni and Nicole's room to have an afternoon tea session. It was so nice to be on the other side of the world with two of my wonderful friends, enjoying a cup of tea in one of the most peaceful places I have ever been to. Bliss! We talked until dinner time, and went downstairs at 5pm for our first shôjin ryôri, which is a traditional and typical Buddhist dinner. All vegan, much to Tesni and Nicole's delight! And Adam's dismay... hahaha. Lots of random root vegetables, pickled plums, broth soups and of course, white rice and green tea!

After dinner, we all went back to Tesni and Nicole's room to relax to the max. We pushed their futons together and just took a group nap, or group rest... whatever you want to call it. At about 8pm, I decided to go back to the room to read or something, but ended up falling asleep. That's right, your eyes weren't playing tricks on you, I went to bed at 8pm. Sounds crazy, but I think I was so relaxed, my body just wanted to rest and enjoy the deepest sleep. It was also important because we had to wake up to the bells at 6am for the morning ceremony! Tesni and Nicole had set some kind of alarm so we would have enough time to get ready in the morning...

So I woke up in the morning to the sound of the bells they ring 5 mins before the morning ceremony is to begin. I suppose it is a kind of warning like, start walking now! But I was totally out of it and I'm like, how come Tesni and Nicole haven't woken us up yet? Oh no, maybe they're not awake yet! Sure enough, they were still asleep and I was in a frenzy like, AHHH WAKE UP! I really didn't want to be late to the ceremony, but we hurried and were only about 2-3 mins behind schedule and other people came in after we did, so it was ok. I think for the first half of the ceremony we were all still asleep, but it was very impressive. Two monks chanted from their prayer books and ushered us through a part of the ceremony that visitors were allowed to participate in. We each got to kneel down and close our eyes in prayer, asking for a hope or dream to be fufilled. I don't know if sharing my hope would be like jinxing it, but I was pleased with my thoughts.

After the ceremony was over, we were ushered back to our dining rooms for breakfast. This morning shôjin ryôri was similar to our dinner, so I am still not sure what Japanese eat for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It always seems like vegetables, broth and rice to me! I would definitely miss breakfast sandwiches if I lived in Japan, they don't know what they are missing!

Adam left after breakfast because he was going to head to the southern part of Japan for a bike race, and then back to Tokyo to catch his plane home. Our goodbye was sad, but couldn't have asked for nicer surroundings, and the memories of this incredible trip together! What a surprise! I still kind of can't believe that my best friend showed up in Japan to surprise me. I don't think anyone will ever be able to top that, although I am encouraging that everyone try. I love surprises!

And then there were three... Tesni, Nicole and I took to the forest, through the cemetary to one of the most beautiful Buddhist shrines I have ever seen. No pictures were allowed past the cemetary, so I missed out on a lot of good shots, but I suppose that is what your brain is for. Every once in awhile, its ok to leave the camera out of it and just take in every thing you see...

I was definitely loving the endless greenery we were seeing in Koyasan, but after awhile it was time to head back to Osaka and meet up with Jordan! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

1 comment:

tesni said...

kels- theres a section in our english book that asks- what do you have for breakfast? and every kid says rice and miso soup. sometimes toast but that's really rare. they eat rice and miso soup for every meal.... i miss breakfast...